A thorough inspection is the difference between buying a solid van and buying a money pit. Even if you’re getting a professional inspection (and you should), knowing what to look for yourself helps you filter out problem vans before spending $300 to $500 on an inspector. This is a systematic walk-through of everything to check, from the ground up.
Bring a checklist (print this page), a torch, a moisture meter ($30 to $50 from Bunnings), and a phone for photos. Photograph everything, including serial numbers, compliance plates, and any areas of concern. You want a record to review later when the excitement of the inspection has worn off.
Start underneath. The chassis tells you more about the van’s history than the curtains ever will.
Exterior: Start From The Outside
Chassis & Underneath
Get on the ground and look underneath. The chassis should be straight, without visible bending, cracking, or heavy rust. Surface rust on a steel chassis is normal for older vans; structural rust (pitting, flaking, thin spots) is a concern. Check where the chassis meets the body for signs of cracking or separation. Look at the drawbar for any signs of repair or welding that might indicate previous damage.
Suspension, Tyres & Brakes
Check the suspension for wear: leaf springs should sit evenly, independent suspension arms should move freely. Check shock absorbers for oil leaks. Tyres should have even wear across the tread; uneven wear suggests alignment or suspension problems. Check the tyre age (DOT code on the sidewall shows manufacture date); tyres over 5 years old should be replaced regardless of tread depth. Brake drums should be free of scoring or cracks.
Walls & Cladding
Run your hand along every wall panel. Feel for soft spots, bubbles, or delamination (where the outer skin separates from the inner structure). This is a water damage indicator. Check all corners and edges where panels join. Press firmly; solid panels resist pressure while water-damaged panels give slightly. Check for cracks, dents, scratches, and any signs of panel replacement or repair.
Roof
If you can safely see the roof (ladder or elevated position), check for cracks, lifting sealant, standing water stains, and any repairs. The roof is the most common entry point for water. All sealant along joins, vents, air conditioner mounts, and antenna mounts should be intact and flexible, not cracked or peeling.
Windows & Seals
Check every window seal from outside. Sealant should be continuous, flexible, and bonded to both the window frame and the wall. Cracked, shrunk, or missing sealant means water is getting in, or will be soon. Open and close every window; they should operate smoothly.
Awning
Extend the awning fully. Check the fabric for UV degradation (brittle, faded, cracking), mould, and tears. Check the arms and mechanism for smooth operation. An awning replacement costs $800 to $2,500 depending on type and size; factor this into your offer if the awning is degraded.
Interior: Work Through Every Room
Moisture Check
This is the most important part of the interior inspection. Use a moisture meter on walls, floors, and ceiling, particularly around windows, the roof edge, and any penetrations (vents, air conditioner, plumbing). Normal readings are under 15%. Readings of 15 to 20% warrant further investigation. Anything over 20% indicates active moisture ingress and potential structural damage. Pay special attention to the front wall (road spray hits here), the bathroom area (plumbing leaks), and around the hot water system.
A musty or mouldy smell inside the van is a water damage red flag, even if you can’t see visible damage. Mould grows behind walls and under floors where you can’t see it. If it smells damp, treat the van with extreme caution.
Floors
Walk on every part of the floor. It should feel solid and uniform. Soft spots, spongy areas, or creaking that suggests movement means the floor substrate (usually plywood) is compromised, likely from water damage. Check around the toilet, shower, kitchen sink, and any plumbing penetrations.
Cabinetry & Fittings
Open every cupboard, drawer, and locker. Check hinges, catches, and runners. Look inside upper lockers for signs of water staining on the ceiling. Check the back of under-sink cupboards for plumbing leaks. Cabinetry quality tells you a lot about overall build quality.
Systems: Test Everything
Electrical
Turn on every light (interior, exterior, awning, reading lights). Test every powerpoint with a phone charger or appliance. Check the battery condition: a fully charged house battery should read 12.6V+ on a multimeter. Ask about battery age; batteries over 4 years old may need replacement soon ($200 to $1,500+ depending on type). If the van has solar, check the panel condition and controller display for output readings.
Gas
Turn on every gas burner on the cooktop. Light the oven. Run the gas hot water. Each should ignite reliably and burn with a clean blue flame (yellow or orange flames indicate a problem). Check gas lines and connections for visible damage. Gas systems should have a current compliance certificate; ask for it.
Water
Fill the water tank and run every tap (hot and cold). Check water pressure and flow. Look under the van while taps are running for any drips or leaks. Flush the toilet. Run the shower. Check the water pump operates correctly and shuts off when taps are closed (running pump with closed taps indicates a leak in the system). Check the condition of the water tank itself for cracks or contamination.
Fridge
Turn the fridge on (both 12V and gas modes if applicable). It should begin cooling within 30 minutes. Check the seals on the door for tightness. A poorly cooling fridge may need a service ($150 to $300) or replacement ($800 to $3,000).
Air Conditioner
If fitted, run the air conditioner on cooling and heating modes. It should cool or heat noticeably within 10 to 15 minutes. Check for unusual noises, vibrations, or water leaks from the unit.
Documentation
Compliance plate: Located on the drawbar or A-frame. Records the van’s ATM (Aggregate Trailer Mass), Tare weight, and GTM. Confirm these match the seller’s claims. If there’s no compliance plate, proceed with extreme caution.
VIN: Matches the registration papers and the PPSR search result.
PPSR check: $2 online. Confirms the van isn’t under finance, isn’t stolen, and hasn’t been written off. Do this before the inspection to avoid wasting time on a van with encumbrances.
Service history: Receipts for annual services, bearing repacks, brake checks, gas compliance, and appliance servicing. A complete history is ideal; a partial history is acceptable; no history at all is a yellow flag.
Gas compliance certificate: Should be current. Gas systems require periodic inspection; an expired certificate means you’ll need to arrange (and pay for) a new compliance check.
The compliance plate is your source of truth for weight limits. If the numbers don’t match the seller’s claims, ask why.
- Bring a torch, moisture meter, checklist, and phone. Photograph everything.
- Start underneath: chassis integrity, suspension condition, tyre age, and brake condition.
- Moisture meter readings over 15% on walls or floors warrant serious investigation. A musty smell means water damage.
- Test every system: lights, taps, gas burners, fridge, air con, toilet, pump, and solar output.
- Check documentation: compliance plate weights, VIN match, PPSR clear, service history, gas compliance current.
- This personal inspection complements but does not replace a professional pre-purchase inspection.
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