The Complete Buyers Guide To Caravan Levelling Gear

You’ve pulled into camp after a long drive. Dinner’s on the cards, the drinks are cold, and you’re ready to relax. Then you notice the sink isn’t draining, the fridge is throwing an error code, and everything on the benchtop is slowly sliding to one side. The caravan isn’t level.

It sounds like a minor annoyance, but an unlevel caravan causes real problems. Three-way (absorption) fridges need to be within 2-3 degrees of level to function properly, and running one off-kilter for extended periods can permanently damage the cooling unit. Water pools in sinks and showers instead of draining. Cupboard doors swing open. And sleeping on a slope gets old fast.

The good news: levelling your caravan is straightforward once you have the right gear. This guide covers the different types of caravan levelling systems, what to look for when buying, and which setup suits your style of travel. If you’re after specific product recommendations, we’ve broken those out into dedicated roundups for manual levelling gear and electric levelling gear.

Why Levelling Your Caravan Actually Matters

Levelling isn’t about being fussy. There are practical reasons why experienced caravanners spend time getting their van flat before unhitching.

Your fridge depends on it. If your caravan has a three-way absorption fridge (most factory-fitted caravan fridges are), it relies on gravity to circulate the refrigerant. When the van is more than a few degrees off level, the cooling system can’t do its job. Short term, the fridge won’t cool properly. Long term, you can burn out the cooling unit entirely, and that’s a $1,000+ repair.

Drainage stops working. Sinks, showers, and even the grey water tank outlet are designed to drain by gravity. An unlevel van means water sits where it shouldn’t, and mould and odours aren’t far behind.

Comfort suffers. Sleeping on a slope is miserable. One of you ends up pinned against the wall while the other clings to the edge of the mattress. Cupboard doors won’t stay shut. Anything you put on the bench rolls off. It makes the whole camp setup feel wrong.

Structural strain. An unlevel caravan puts uneven load on the chassis, stabiliser legs, and tyres. Over a long trip, this adds up. Getting level protects your van as much as it protects your sanity.

Types of Caravan Levelling Gear

There are three main categories of levelling gear, and the right one depends on your budget, how often you move camp, and how much convenience matters to you.

Ramp Levellers (Manual Levelling Ramps)

These are the most common and most affordable option. They’re heavy-duty plastic or rubber ramps that you drive your caravan wheels onto to raise one side until it’s level. Most have multiple stages (typically 3-4 height increments) so you can match the exact amount of lift needed.

Ramp levellers work well for the majority of caravanners. They’re lightweight, easy to store, and there’s nothing to break or go wrong. The trade-off is that they require a bit of physical effort: you need to position the ramps, then carefully drive (or reverse) the van onto them until the bubble sits centre on your spirit level. With a tandem axle van, you’ll need two ramps per side.

Quality varies significantly. Cheap ramps can crack in extreme heat or under heavy loads, and narrow ramps don’t suit wide tyres. Look for ramps rated to at least your caravan’s loaded weight, with a wide enough platform for your tyre width.

Redfoot and Fiamma make quality ramp systems that handle Australian conditions well, while brands like GT Tred and Hulk 4×4 offer more rugged options designed for off-road use.

Best for: Most caravanners, especially those on a budget or travelling light. Price range: $30-$150.

Chock and Stack Systems

These systems use interlocking blocks (often called Lego-style levellers) that you stack to your desired height, then drive onto. The key advantage over ramps is precision: you can add or remove individual blocks to fine-tune the height, rather than being locked into the fixed stages of a ramp.

Chock and stack systems also tend to handle rough or uneven ground better than flat ramps because the interlocking design distributes weight more evenly. They’re popular with caravanners who frequently camp on gravel, grass, or sloped bush camps where the ground isn’t perfectly flat.

The downside is they take up more storage space than a pair of ramps, and stacking blocks in the mud or rain isn’t anyone’s idea of fun. Some brands include a carry bag, which helps keep them organised in the boot or tunnel.

Black Jack, Redfoot, and Explore all make robust interlocking systems that handle heavy loads and rough terrain well.

Best for: Frequent travellers who camp on varied terrain and want more height flexibility. Price range: $60-$200.

Electric and Hydraulic Levelling Systems

These are the “push a button and walk away” option. Electric or hydraulic jacks mount to the caravan’s chassis and automatically lift and level the van at the press of a button. Some systems include onboard level sensors that do the whole job for you.

Fully automatic systems are most commonly factory-fitted on motorhomes and high-end caravans, but aftermarket options exist for retrofitting. Electric caravan jacks (like the popular Black Jack range) sit somewhere in between: they’re motorised jacks that replace your manual corner steadies, giving you powered lift and lowering, but you still need to check levels manually and adjust each corner individually.

For most caravanners looking to add electric convenience after the fact, the more practical option is an electric monitoring system like the SavvyLevel S5 ($365), Elam Level ($175), or the Oricom RV Smart Leveller ($200). These systems give you digital level readings on your phone or dashboard display, making the manual levelling process more accurate without the complexity of powered jacks.

The upside is obvious: speed, convenience, and no crawling around on the ground. The downside is cost (easily $1,500-$5,000+ for a full system) and the added weight. If something goes wrong electrically in a remote area, you’ll wish you had a set of ramps as backup.

Best for: Those with mobility issues, luxury setups, or anyone who moves camp frequently and values quick setup. Price range: $500-$5,000+.

What to Look For When Buying

Before you grab the first set of ramps off the shelf, there are a few things worth checking against your specific setup.

Weight Rating

Every levelling ramp and block system has a maximum weight rating. This needs to exceed the loaded weight of your caravan (your ATM, not the empty tare weight). A set of ramps rated to 3,000kg won’t cut it if your loaded van weighs 3,200kg. Most quality ramps are rated between 3,000kg and 8,000kg per pair.

Tyre Width Compatibility

Standard caravan tyres are around 185-195mm wide, and most ramps are designed for this. But if you’ve upgraded to wider off-road tyres (235mm+), a standard-width ramp may not provide full tyre contact. Reduced contact means the tyre can slip off the ramp or the load isn’t distributed properly. Check the ramp’s platform width against your tyre width before buying.

Number of Height Stages

More stages means finer adjustment. A three-stage ramp gives you three fixed heights (typically around 40mm, 70mm, and 100mm). A chock and stack system might let you adjust in 25mm increments. Consider how uneven the ground is where you typically camp: if you mostly stay in caravan parks on pads, three stages is plenty. If you’re bush camping on hillsides, the more adjustment the better.

Single vs Tandem Axle

If you have a tandem axle caravan, you need levelling gear that accommodates both wheels on the same side. Some ramp systems are long enough for tandems in one piece. Others require two separate ramps per side, placed in front of each wheel. Dedicated tandem kits (like the Haigh CVL2) split between the axles with a chock section in between, which is a tidier solution.

Storage and Weight

You’re going to carry this gear for the entire trip, so size and weight matter. A pair of basic ramps might weigh 2-3kg total. A full chock and stack system with bag could be 5-8kg. Electric systems add considerably more. Think about where it’ll live in the van: tunnel boot, front storage box, or tow vehicle. If space is tight, compact ramps win.

Essential Levelling Accessories

Levelling ramps on their own aren’t the complete kit. A few accessories make the whole process faster, safer, and more accurate.

Spirit Level

You can’t level what you can’t measure. A small spirit level (or a dedicated caravan levelling app on your phone) is essential. Stick-on bubble levels are cheap and easy to mount inside and outside the van. For more precision, a T-shaped spirit level lets you check side-to-side and front-to-back in one go. Some caravanners mount a permanent level on the A-frame so they can check before unhitching.

Wheel Chocks

Once the van is on the ramps, it needs to stay there. Wheel chocks prevent the caravan from rolling off the ramps, which is especially important on sloped sites. Many levelling kits include matching chocks, but if yours doesn’t, buy a pair. Ideally from the same brand as your ramps so they interlock properly.

Stabiliser Pads

Your corner steadies (stabiliser legs) rest on small feet that can sink into soft ground: grass, gravel, sand, even hot bitumen. Stabiliser pads spread the load and stop the feet from sinking. They also help prevent ants and other insects from climbing up the legs and into the van. Some pads (like the Redfoot anti-ant pads) have a moat design that you fill with water to create an insect barrier.

Storage Bag

A carry bag keeps your ramps, chocks, and pads together in one place. It also stops muddy ramps from dirtying everything else in the boot. It sounds like a minor thing, but after a few weeks on the road, organisation becomes everything. Most quality levelling kits include one, but standalone bags are available if yours didn’t come with one.

The Importance of Your Jockey Wheel

While your levelling ramps handle side-to-side levelling, your jockey wheel is crucial for front-to-back adjustment. A quality jockey wheel with good lifting capacity makes fine-tuning the caravan’s nose height easy and precise.

Most caravans come with a basic wind-up jockey wheel, but upgrading to a Black Jack MINI Electric Trailer Jack ($464) eliminates the winding effort entirely. Electric jockey wheels are especially valuable for heavier vans or caravanners with mobility issues, letting you adjust the front height at the push of a button.

Your jockey wheel also needs proper support on soft ground. A jockey block or footpad prevents the wheel from sinking into sand, grass, or gravel, which can make unhitching difficult and put strain on the coupling.

How to Level Your Caravan (Step by Step)

Levelling is one of those things that feels fiddly the first few times but becomes second nature within a few camps. Here’s the process most experienced caravanners follow.

Step 1: Assess the site before parking. Before you pull in, walk the site and check the slope. Work out which side is low and plan your approach so the low-side wheels will drive onto the ramps. If the site slopes front-to-back, you’ll adjust that with the jockey wheel after unhitching.

Step 2: Position the ramps. Place your levelling ramps in front of (or behind) the wheels on the low side. If you have a helper, have them guide you. If you’re solo, mark the ramp position, then get in the car.

Step 3: Drive onto the ramps. Slowly drive the caravan wheels up the ramps to the appropriate stage. Use your spirit level (or a helper watching the bubble) to know when to stop. Put the tow vehicle in park and apply the handbrake.

Step 4: Chock the wheels. Place wheel chocks behind and in front of the wheels (especially any wheels not on ramps) to prevent rolling.

Step 5: Unhitch and adjust front-to-back. Unhitch from the tow vehicle and use the jockey wheel to raise or lower the front of the van until it’s level front-to-back. Check your spirit level again.

Step 6: Lower the stabiliser legs. Wind down all four corner steadies until they’re firmly in contact with the ground (with pads underneath if on soft ground). These stabilise the van but shouldn’t lift it.

Step 7: Final check. Check your spirit level one last time. Open the fridge and make sure the bubble is centred. You’re done.

Caravan Levelling FAQs

How level does a caravan actually need to be?

For comfort, close enough is fine. For the fridge, you want to be within 2-3 degrees of perfectly level. Most spirit levels and phone apps will show you this clearly. If the bubble is touching the lines, you’re good enough.

Can I use wooden blocks instead of proper levelling ramps?

You can, but it’s not ideal. Wooden blocks can split, slip on wet ground, and don’t provide consistent height increments. Purpose-built ramps are safer, more stable, and cost as little as $30. Given how often you’ll use them on a big lap, it’s worth buying the right gear.

Do I need levelling ramps if I only stay in caravan parks?

Yes. Caravan park sites are often on pads or concrete, but they’re not always level. Older parks especially can have uneven or sloped sites. A basic set of ramps takes up almost no space and you’ll be glad you have them.

What’s the difference between stabiliser legs and levelling jacks?

Stabiliser legs (corner steadies) are designed to stop the van from rocking side to side when you move around inside. They are not designed to lift the van’s weight. Levelling jacks (like electric caravan jacks) are engineered to bear weight and can be used to lift and level the van. The distinction matters because using stabiliser legs to lift the van can bend them and damage the van’s chassis mounts.

Should I level the van while still hitched to the car?

Level side-to-side while hitched (by driving onto ramps), then unhitch and adjust front-to-back with the jockey wheel. Trying to level a hitched van front-to-back puts strain on the tow ball and coupling.