The Complete Caravanners’ Guide To Carrying Water

Water is life on the road. Your caravan’s built-in tank might hold 100-200 litres, but for extended free camping or remote travel, that’s barely a week’s supply for two people. Understanding your water carrying options and matching them to your travel style will determine whether you’re rationing every drop or enjoying long hot showers in the middle of nowhere.

The challenge isn’t just quantity, it’s accessibility, weight distribution, and ensuring you’ve got safe drinking water when you need it most. From jerry cans and flexible bladders to massive under-chassis tanks and portable storage systems, each solution has trade-offs that matter when you’re 300 kilometres from the nearest town.

Understanding Your Water Needs on the Road

Before diving into storage solutions, you need to understand how much water you actually use. Most people drastically underestimate their consumption until they’re measuring every litre.

A typical couple uses 40-60 litres per day including drinking, cooking, washing dishes, and basic hygiene. Add a daily shower and you’re looking at 80-100 litres. Families with children can easily double these figures, especially if you’re not used to water conservation habits.

Your travel style dictates your storage strategy. Caravan park hoppers can manage with smaller reserves since they’ll top up every few days. Free campers heading to remote areas need serious capacity, often 400+ litres for a week of independence.

Built-in Tank Systems and Limitations

Every caravan comes with a built-in freshwater tank, typically 100-200 litres depending on the model size and manufacturer priorities. These tanks are usually polyethylene, mounted either in the front boot, under the floor, or in an external compartment.

The location matters more than you’d think. Front-mounted tanks help with weight distribution but reduce storage space. Under-floor tanks keep the centre of gravity low but are vulnerable to damage from rocks and road debris. External compartment tanks offer easy access for cleaning but take up valuable storage.

Built-in tanks have several limitations that become apparent after your first extended trip. They’re rarely large enough for serious remote camping, difficult to clean thoroughly, and impossible to empty completely for travel or winter storage. The single tank design also means no separation between drinking water and general-use water.

Upgrading Built-in Tank Capacity

Some manufacturers offer larger tank options during build, but retrofitting is complex and expensive. You’re looking at $2,000-4,000 including labour to replace a tank with a larger unit, assuming space permits. The structural modifications required often void warranties and may affect insurance coverage.

Portable Water Storage Solutions

Portable storage gives you flexibility and redundancy that fixed tanks can’t match. You can fill containers from various sources, separate drinking water from utility water, and adjust your carrying capacity based on your destination.

Jerry Cans: The Traditional Choice

Twenty-litre jerry cans remain popular for good reasons. They’re robust, stackable, and familiar to most travellers. Military-spec steel cans like the Wavian Jerry Can ($89) are virtually indestructible but heavy when full. Plastic alternatives are lighter but don’t handle heat and UV as well.

The main drawbacks are weight (40kg when full), awkward handling, and limited capacity relative to space used. Jerry cans work well for emergency reserves or specific applications like drinking water storage, but they’re not practical as your primary water system.

Flexible Water Bladders

Flexible bladders pack small when empty and can hold significant volumes. The Camptech Flexi Tank (100L, $165) fits into spaces impossible for rigid containers and distributes weight by conforming to available area.

Quality varies dramatically between brands. Cheap bladders fail quickly under UV exposure and temperature extremes. Food-grade materials are essential for drinking water, and you’ll want multiple compartments or baffles to prevent the bladder becoming an unstable water bomb when partially full.

Portable Water Cubes

Collapsible cubes like the Lifesaver Cube (20L, $45) offer middle ground between jerry cans and bladders. They’re more stable than bladders when partially full, easier to handle than jerry cans, and stack efficiently in storage compartments.

The tap systems vary in quality, and cheaper units leak from the seams after extended use. Look for units with proper spigots rather than basic taps, and consider the cube’s stability when placed on uneven ground.

External Tank Additions and Installations

For serious water capacity, external tanks offer the best litre-per-dollar value. These systems range from simple bolt-on additions to sophisticated plumbed installations that integrate with your van’s existing system.

Under-chassis Tank Systems

Under-chassis tanks maximise capacity without sacrificing storage space. The BLA Heavy Duty Under Van Tank (200L, $680) bolts directly to your chassis rails and includes proper mounting hardware for road conditions.

Installation requires careful consideration of departure angles, ground clearance, and axle loading. The tank needs protection from rocks and road debris, typically achieved with a steel bash plate. Professional installation costs $800-1,200 including plumbing integration.

Weight distribution becomes critical with large under-chassis tanks. A 200-litre tank adds 200kg directly to your tow ball weight when full, potentially exceeding your vehicle’s towing capacity or legal limits.

A-Frame and Drawbar Tanks

A-frame tanks mount in front of the caravan, improving weight distribution by placing water ahead of the axles. The TrailBlaza A-Frame Tank (120L, $520) includes mounting brackets designed for Australian conditions.

These tanks are exposed to road debris and weather, requiring robust construction and regular inspection. They also increase your overall length, affecting some campsite bookings and ferry restrictions.

Rear-mounted Water Tanks

Rear-mounted options work well on vans with spare mounting points, but they shift weight behind the axles, potentially affecting stability. They’re best suited for smaller capacity additions (50-100 litres) rather than primary storage.

Water Quality and Purification Systems

Carrying more water means nothing if it’s not safe to drink. Australia’s water quality varies dramatically by region, and extended storage introduces additional contamination risks.

Source Water Quality

Bore water in remote areas often contains high mineral levels that affect taste and can damage appliances. Coastal areas may have salt contamination, while agricultural regions sometimes have chemical residues. Always ask locals about water quality and consider testing kits for extended remote travel.

Storage Contamination Prevention

Even good source water can become contaminated in storage. UV exposure breaks down plastic containers and encourages algae growth. Temperature fluctuations create condensation that can introduce bacteria.

Food-grade containers are essential for drinking water storage. The Camec Water Tank Treatment ($18) prevents algae growth and bacterial contamination in stored water without affecting taste.

Filtration and Purification Options

Inline filters between your tank and taps remove sediment and improve taste but don’t eliminate bacteria or viruses. The Puretec Caravan Water Filter ($285) handles most contamination issues and includes a pressure gauge for monitoring filter condition.

For questionable water sources, UV purification systems like the Katadyn UV Sterilizer ($195) eliminate biological contamination without chemicals or ongoing costs.

Weight Distribution and Safety Considerations

Water is heavy, and poor weight distribution kills caravans and tow vehicles. Every litre weighs one kilogram, so a 300-litre system adds 300kg to your setup when full.

Legal Weight Limits

Your combination’s Aggregate Trailer Mass (ATM) is the legal maximum weight including the van, contents, and water. Exceeding ATM voids insurance and makes you liable for accidents. Many travellers discover their water system puts them over legal limits only after an incident.

Tow ball weight limits matter equally. Most utes handle 200-350kg tow ball weight, but a full under-chassis tank can easily exceed this. Check your vehicle’s handbook for exact figures and consider them non-negotiable limits.

Stability and Handling

Water slosh affects van stability, particularly during cornering and emergency manoeuvres. Baffled tanks reduce this movement, while bladders and partially filled rigid tanks are worst for stability.

Distributed weight generally beats concentrated weight. Multiple smaller tanks spread around the van create better stability than one massive tank, even if the total capacity is identical.

Axle Loading

Most caravans run close to their axle weight limits when loaded for extended travel. Adding significant water capacity may require axle upgrades or suspension modifications to handle the additional weight legally and safely.

Water Filling Strategies and Sources

Having large water capacity means nothing if you can’t fill it efficiently and from reliable sources. Your filling strategy determines whether your water system enhances or limits your travel freedom.

Standard Water Points

Caravan parks typically provide unlimited water access, but flow rates vary dramatically. Budget extra time at parks with low-pressure systems, particularly during peak periods when everyone’s filling simultaneously.

Town water supplies are generally reliable and safe, though taste varies by region. Coastal towns sometimes have desalinated water that tastes different but is perfectly safe.

Alternative Water Sources

Roadhouses and service stations often allow water filling for a small fee ($2-5), but their systems aren’t designed for large volume fills. Bring a long hose and be prepared for slow flow rates.

Bore water requires local knowledge. Some station bores produce excellent drinking water, while others are high in minerals or salt. Always ask permission and offer payment for station water.

Filling Equipment

A quality water hose makes filling faster and more hygienic. The Camco TastePURE Hose (15m, $89) is drinking water safe and coils neatly for storage.

Pressure regulators protect your van’s plumbing from high town water pressure. The Shurflo Pressure Regulator ($65) prevents blown connections and reduces water hammer noise.

Recommended Water Carrying Combinations

The best water system matches your travel style, budget, and van setup. Here are proven combinations that work for different touring approaches.

Weekend Warriors and Park Tourers

Built-in tank plus two 20L jerry cans provides 140-240L total capacity. This setup handles extended weekend trips and gives backup water for occasional free camping.

Total capacity: 140-240L
Cost: $200-300 additional
Best for: Regular park stays with occasional free camping

Serious Free Campers

Built-in tank plus 200L under-chassis tank provides 300-400L capacity for extended remote camping. Add a 20L drinking water jerry can for quality separation.

Total capacity: 300-400L
Cost: $1,500-2,000 installed
Best for: Week-long remote camping, desert crossings

Full-time Travellers

Multiple tank system with built-in primary, under-chassis secondary, and portable backup containers. This setup provides redundancy and flexibility for varying conditions.

Total capacity: 400-600L
Cost: $2,500-4,000
Best for: Extended travel, variable access to services

Budget-Conscious Approach

Built-in tank supplemented with flexible bladders and collapsible containers. Lower capacity but maximum flexibility without permanent modifications.

Total capacity: 250-350L
Cost: $400-800
Best for: Mixed travel styles, rental vans, budget builds