The Complete Caravanners’ Guide To Carrying Water

Water is life on the road, but carrying enough for extended periods while managing weight, space, and quality isn’t as simple as bolting on the biggest tank you can find. The decisions you make about water storage and treatment will affect everything from your route planning to your daily comfort, and getting it wrong means either running dry or hauling unnecessary weight across the continent.

Whether you’re planning weekend getaways or a two-year lap, your water system needs to match your travel style, rig capacity, and the places you want to camp. A couple doing mostly caravan parks has vastly different needs than a family free camping in the Centre for weeks at a time.

Understanding Your Water Needs

Before diving into tanks and pumps, you need to understand how much water you actually use and where you’ll be camping. This determines everything else about your system.

The average Australian uses 200 litres per day at home, but caravanners typically use 40-80 litres per day depending on their setup and habits. A couple doing dishes, cooking, drinking, and basic washing might use 50 litres daily. Add kids, pets, or longer showers and you’re looking at 80+ litres.

Your camping style matters more than family size. Caravan park hoppers can top up every few days and get away with smaller tanks. Free campers heading to remote areas need enough water for a week or more, plus emergency reserves.

Climate and season affect consumption too. Summer in the tropics means more drinking water and longer showers. Winter in the desert means less shower water but more for cooking hot meals and cleaning.

Fresh Water Tank Types and Materials

Water tanks come in three main materials, each with distinct advantages and drawbacks that affect everything from taste to durability.

Polyethylene (Plastic) Tanks

The most common choice for good reason. Food-grade polyethylene tanks are lightweight, won’t rust, and handle temperature changes well. They’re also the most affordable option, typically costing $200-600 depending on capacity.

Quality varies dramatically. Cheap tanks crack in the sun or develop that distinctive plastic taste that makes your morning coffee undrinkable. Look for tanks with UV stabilisers and thicker walls. Polymaster ~$350 and Team Poly ~$280 make reliable tanks that last for years without degrading.

The main downside is algae growth if you don’t keep tanks clean and covered. Plastic tanks also expand and contract more than other materials, which can stress fittings over time.

Stainless Steel Tanks

The premium choice for water purity and durability. Stainless steel doesn’t affect water taste, resists bacterial growth, and handles impacts better than plastic. They’re also completely recyclable at end of life.

The catch is weight and cost. Stainless tanks weigh 2-3 times more than plastic equivalents and cost $800-2000 depending on capacity. For weight-conscious setups, this extra mass matters. A 200-litre stainless tank adds about 40kg compared to plastic.

Spinifex ~$1200 makes excellent stainless tanks with proper baffles and quality fittings. They’re worth the investment if you value pure-tasting water and plan to keep your van for many years.

Fibreglass Tanks

The middle ground option. Fibreglass tanks don’t rust, have minimal thermal expansion, and weigh less than stainless steel. They’re also easier to repair in remote areas compared to cracked plastic tanks.

The downsides include higher cost than plastic ($500-1000) and potential for gel coat degradation in harsh UV conditions. Quality fibreglass tanks like those from Holding Tank Solutions ~$650 last well, but cheaper versions can develop stress cracks or delamination.

How Much Water Capacity Do You Need?

Tank capacity decisions affect your entire travel experience. Too little means constant water runs and restricted camping options. Too much means hauling unnecessary weight and reduced payload for other gear.

Single Tank vs Multiple Tank Systems

Most caravans come with a single tank ranging from 80-200 litres. This works for weekend trips and caravan park touring, but longer free camping trips need more capacity.

Adding a second tank gives you flexibility and redundancy. You can isolate tanks for cleaning, carry different water types, or keep one tank as emergency reserve. Two 100-litre tanks often fit better than one 200-litre tank in space-constrained vans.

Capacity Recommendations by Travel Style

Weekend warriors and caravan park tourists can get by with 80-120 litres. You’ll fill up every 2-3 days, but water is always available.

Mixed camping (some free, some powered sites) works best with 150-250 litres. This covers 4-6 days of normal usage, giving you flexibility to stay longer at good free camps.

Serious free campers and remote area travellers need 300+ litres minimum. Factor in drinking water reserves, emergency supplies, and the reality that remote water sources aren’t always available or safe.

Water Pumps: 12V vs Manual vs Pressure

Your pump choice affects convenience, reliability, and power consumption. Each type suits different travel styles and system complexities.

12V Diaphragm Pumps

The standard for most caravan water systems. 12V diaphragm pumps provide consistent pressure, run quietly, and integrate with standard RV taps and fixtures. They’re self-priming and handle air in the lines without damage.

Quality matters enormously with 12V pumps. Cheap pumps cycle constantly, run loudly, and fail quickly. Premium pumps like the Seaflo 51-Series ~$180 or Jabsco Par-Max ~$220 run smoothly for years and maintain consistent pressure.

Power consumption ranges from 2-8 amps depending on pump size and demand. The pump only runs when taps are open, so daily consumption is typically 5-15 amp hours for normal usage.

Manual Pumps

Ultra-reliable with zero power consumption. Manual pumps suit minimalist setups, backup systems, or situations where battery power is limited. They’re also nearly impossible to break in remote areas.

The downside is convenience. Manual pumping gets old quickly for anything beyond basic water needs. You can’t take a proper shower or do dishes efficiently with a manual pump.

Pressure Tank Systems

The premium option that provides mains-pressure water without pump cycling. A small 12V pump charges a pressure tank that delivers water at consistent pressure until the tank needs recharging.

Pressure systems provide excellent shower pressure and eliminate the pump cycling noise. The Shurflo Accumulator Tank ~$160 paired with a quality pump creates a near-mains water experience.

The downside is complexity, cost, and space requirements. Pressure tanks need mounting space and additional fittings. They’re worth it for serious full-timers but overkill for weekend camping.

Water Filtration and Treatment Options

Australian town water is generally safe, but taste varies dramatically. Tank water can develop off-flavours, and remote water sources need treatment before use.

Inline Filtration

The most convenient option for general water improvement. Inline filters connect to your existing plumbing and filter all water before it reaches taps.

Basic carbon filters remove chlorine taste and odours for $30-60. The Camco TastePure Inline Filter ~$45 handles chlorine and basic contaminants with minimal pressure drop.

Multi-stage filters like the Clearsource Ultra ~$280 remove bacteria, cysts, and heavy metals but cost more and reduce water pressure. They’re worth it if you frequently use questionable water sources.

UV Sterilisation

UV systems kill bacteria, viruses, and other pathogens without chemicals or pressure loss. They’re excellent for treating river water, bore water, or any source where biological contamination is a concern.

The Steripen Ultralight UV-C ~$110 treats water bottle quantities, while inline UV systems like the Viqua D4 Premium ~$580 sterilise your entire water supply automatically.

UV systems need clear water to work effectively. Sediment filters should be installed upstream to remove particles that can shield pathogens from UV light.

Water Treatment Chemicals

Chemical treatment prevents tank growth and purifies questionable water. Aquatainer tablets or liquid treatments keep stored water fresh for months.

Pool chlorine (unscented sodium hypochlorite) works as emergency water treatment at 2 drops per litre. Silver-based treatments like Puriclean ~$18 prevent bacterial growth in tanks without affecting taste.

Grey Water Management

Every litre of fresh water becomes grey water that needs proper disposal. Managing grey water affects your camping options and environmental impact.

Grey Water Tank Systems

Built-in grey water tanks capture sink and shower water for proper disposal at dump points. Most vans come with 60-120 litre grey tanks, but larger fresh water systems need bigger grey tanks to match.

The rule of thumb is grey tank capacity should be 80% of fresh tank capacity. You’ll dump grey water more frequently than filling fresh water, and some grey water evaporates or gets used for non-potable purposes.

Quality grey tanks include level sensors and proper venting. The Dometic MasterFlush Series ~$420 tanks include accurate level monitoring and odour-sealed connections.

Portable Grey Water Solutions

Portable containers work for simple setups or places where built-in tanks don’t fit. You manually empty containers at dump points or appropriate disposal areas.

This approach suits minimalist campers or situations where grey tank installation isn’t practical. The downside is manual handling and limited capacity for longer stays.

Grey Water Treatment and Reuse

Treating grey water for reuse extends your water supplies and reduces dump requirements. Simple settling tanks remove food particles, while more complex systems make grey water suitable for flushing or external washing.

Biodegradable soaps and detergents are essential if you’re disposing of grey water on the ground in remote areas. Even then, grey water should go into absorbent soil away from water sources and camping areas.

Weight Distribution and Plumbing Considerations

Water is heavy at 1kg per litre, making tank placement critical for safety and handling. Poor weight distribution affects towing stability and can overload axles or exceed legal weight limits.

Tank Placement and Weight Distribution

Water tanks should be positioned as close to the caravan’s centre of mass as possible. Tanks mounted far forward or behind the axles create handling problems and uneven tyre wear.

Multiple smaller tanks distribute weight better than single large tanks. Two 100L tanks can be placed on either side of the van’s centreline, while a single 200L tank must go in one location with more impact on weight distribution.

Consider payload limits when sizing your water system. A 200L water system adds 200kg when full, using a significant portion of your van’s payload capacity. You might need to choose between water capacity and other gear.

Plumbing and Fitting Quality

Caravan plumbing faces constant vibration, temperature extremes, and movement. Quality fittings and proper installation prevent leaks that can cause expensive water damage.

Use marine-grade fittings designed for mobile applications. Shurflo ~$25 and Jabsco ~$30 make reliable fittings that handle vibration without loosening.

Flexible hoses should be supported every 30cm to prevent stress points. Use quality hose clamps and check all connections regularly for signs of leakage or loosening.

Our Water System Recommendations

Based on years of testing and feedback from Big Lappers, here are our picks for different camping styles and budgets.

Best Overall: Dual Polyethylene Tank Setup

For most Big Lappers, two quality polyethylene tanks provide the best balance of capacity, cost, and flexibility. We recommend two 100-150L Polymaster tanks ~$320 each with a quality 12V pump like the Seaflo 51-Series ~$180.

This setup provides 200-300L capacity with excellent weight distribution options. You can isolate tanks for cleaning, use one as emergency reserve, or carry different water types. Total system cost runs $800-1200 including plumbing and installation.

Budget Choice: Single Tank with Manual Backup

A single 120L Team Poly tank ~$280 with 12V pump and manual backup covers basic needs for under $500. Add a portable 20L jerry can for emergency water and you’re set for most camping situations.

Premium Option: Stainless Steel with Pressure System

For the ultimate water experience, a Spinifex 200L stainless tank ~$1200 with Shurflo pressure system ~$350 delivers pure-tasting water at mains pressure. Add inline filtration for the best possible water quality on the road.

Remote Area Setup: Large Capacity with Treatment

Serious remote campers need 400L+ capacity with comprehensive treatment. Multiple tanks, UV sterilisation, multi-stage filtration, and backup manual pumps ensure safe water regardless of source quality. Budget $2500-4000 for a complete system.